Category: Free crochet patterns

Find the pattern for checkered Etna top here

Here comes a simple and quick crochet project for a belly chain with a tight crocheted string and 3 uniform flowers in the middle. It is tied on the back so you will need your waist measurements. A great project if you have some secondhand yarn or yarn scraps laying around. You can also make a smaller version for a bracelet or necklace, just adjust the circumference measurements.

What you will need:

• 3 mm hook
• superfine/fingering yarn in any material you want. Cotton, viscose, wool.
• scissors and measuring tape
• slip stitch (ss), chains (ch), double crochet (dc)

Start by taking your waist measurement.

Divide it with 2. Then divide that number with 4. Those are the 2 measurements you will need.
Mine was: 88 cm.
So my 2 measurements are 44 cm and 11 cm.

1. Start by chaining tightly until you have those 2 measurements put together.
2. Then tightly chain 10
3. Loosly chain 4
4. Make 1 ss in the 4th ch from the hook
5. Turn your crochet so the long chain is now to your right instead of left and crochet on what would be the bottom side of the ring you made
6. make *3 dc, 1 ss* into the right
7. Repeat 4 times = 4 petals.
8. Tightly chain 10
9. Ss into the 10th ch from the flower
10. Tightly chain until you have your 2nd measurement
11. Repeat the flower again: 10 ch, flower, 10 ch, slip stitch
12. Do this one more time so you have 3 flowers with the same distance between
13. Then tightly chain so you have the same measurement as the beginning of the chain.
14. Break of the yarn
15. You don’t have to weave in any ends, just tightly pull the ends and cut them off with scissors.

Use this crochet flower as it is – or add it to crochet clothes or sew together to a bag, blanket etc..

Hook: 3 mm
Yarn: Superfine/lace wool, approx. size: 50 g = 200 m
Stitches: double crochet (dc), single crochet (sc), chains (ch), slip stitch (ss)

1. Chain 4, connect to a ring with 1 ss in the 4th ch from hook, chain 2. Make 12 dc in the ring (crochet around the yarn end so you don’t need to weave it in in the end). 1 ss in the 1st dc in the round, ch 3, turn. Switch color now, if you’d like.
2. 1 ss in the first dc, ch 3, 1 ss in the next dc etc. – finish with 1 ss around the first arch = 12 arches, ch 1, turn
3. 1 ss in the first arch. Ch 2, 2 dc in the same arch, ch 3, 2 dc in the next arch, ch 3, 2 dc in the next etc. – finish with 3 ch and 1 ss in the first dc, ch 1
4. Continue in the same direction: 1 sc in the same stitch (first dc), then in the next arch make: 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc – repeat and end the round and flower with: 1 ss in the first sc. Break off and weave in the ends.

Cotton vs wool (using same pattern and same hook):

Video guide:

If you want to make this top:

Use superfine wool, 4,5 mm hook. Start with chainless foundation in treble crochet. Stretch and measure on your body. I made 74 stitches, connect in a round, ch 3 everytime you turn and make 1 treble in each stitch. At the end (when you have the length you want – I used 1 yarn ball of 50 g) you break off and tightly chain from about 1/4 of the way into the top, until it can get over your shoulder, slip stitch to the back.

When you attach the flowers you can sew or crochet, I sewed them on. Place them where you want with pins while you wear the top. You then sew only the back of the flowers onto the top. So this would be either into the back loop of the stitches or into the middle of the dc/sc stitch. Only crochet on the back, not all the way through to the front.

I made sure to not sew all the way around each flower but instead only sew on half and then continue to the next flower and so on, because then when I reached the end I could do the other half of all the flowers.

If you want to make the leaves use same yarn and hook: chain 11. make in the following stitches: 1 sc, 1 hdc, ,1 dc, 4 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. 1 ss in the 1st sc. Chain 11 tightly. Now you can make one more leaf. If you want 2 leaves next to each other just chain immediately after making a leaf, then make 1 ss in the 1st sc on the first leaf to connect them.

Sew them by sewing into the edge all the way up on both sides of the leaf and down and by sewing stitches around the 11 chains you make – the chains are so small it’s hard to sew through them (and not necessary).

Yarn: Superfine cotton. 50 g = 160 m
Hook: 3 mm
Stitch: Shell stich (3 dc, 1 sc), dc + dc in chainless foundation, sc, slip stitch, chains.

1. Use the free bra cup pattern and make 2 bra cups. After finishing the second one, don’t break off. Now onto the body.
   
2. Make 1 dc into every hole on the bottom bra cup edge (between 2 sc rows), then make approx the same amount as a chainless foundation in dc (make sure to stretch and measure on your back)
   I had 44 dc on the bra cup, 44 on the back, 44 on the other bra cup. Continue with dc on the other bra cup.
3. Stop at the edge and start to chain for the length.
   
4. Chain and stretch the chain to see how long you want it. I made 54 chains. Make a number that can be divided with 6.
   
5. Chain 3 (turning chains), make the first 3 dc in the 4th ch from the hook. 1 sc in the 3rd chain from the hook, 3 dc in the next ch, 1 sc in the 3. ch etc.
6. Every shell stitch row is finished by slip stitching into 3 stitches on the bra cup, ch 2 and turn.
7. 3 dc in sc, 1 sc in the 2nd dc in the shell. If you finish with 1 sc, chain, turn and make 3 dc in the sc, 1 sc in the middle of the next shell. If you finish with 3 dc, chain and turn and make 1 sc in the middle of the first shell, 3 dc in the next sc, etc.
8. Make as many rows as you like, then switch to chains. Always make at least 2 rows with chains.
9. Make 3 chains, 1 sc in the sc etc. Ch 3 and turn over, 1 sc around the first chained arch, 3 ch, 1 sc around the next arch. etc. You can make sure you make the same number of arches by counting how many you have, sometimes you might have to make one more arch before slip stitching to the bra cup. Always end a chained row at the bra cup by making 1 slip stitch, chain for the next arch and turn over. Make sure to count the number of arches so you make sure to make the same amount on every chained row, sometimes you might have to add an extra arch at the end/beginning.
10. When you switch back to shell stitch you crochet around the arch and into the sc. 3 dc around the arch, 1 sc in the sc.
11. Alternate between chained rows and shell stitch and every set of chained rows you make an increase by making 1 extra chain. So 4 chains, 1 sc for two rows, back to shell stitch row(s), next set, 5 chains, 1 sc etc. You do this until you make 8 chains, then you continue to chain 8 everytime you make chained rows. Mark where on the top you made the 7 chains, so that when you reach the opposite side of the top you can start to make less chains in the same spot.
12. I made a random mix of 2 chained rows and alternating between 1, 2, 3 4, 5 rows of shell stitch. You can look at what you have crocheted and ask yourself: what would look good here: more coverage or more holes?
13. Once you reach the back you will start to slip stitch into 4 stitches on the bra cup after every shell stitch row. When you make 8 chains in your chained row you finish by slip stitching into 2 stitches on the bra cup.
    
14. When you have crocheted on the other bra cup as well you can stop at the corner and chain 80, then slip stitch back to make a strap. Break off an do the same on the other side.
    
15. Now crochet 1 sc into each of the 3 sc on the top of the bra cup for a strap. Crochet back and forth until you have enough to reach to the back. Stretch the strap. I had 60 rows.
16. Slip stitch onto the back and try on. Make more or less rows if needed. I slip stitched mine onto the 17th, 18th and 19th stitch from the armpit.
    
17. Crochet on the side of the strap and on the side of the bra cups (the inside). Make shell stitch rows and chained rows (with 6 chains). In order to create ruffle you don’t skip any stitches. Every hole (between 2 sc rows) count as 1 stitch. Make 3 dc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next, etc. Chain and turn, when you reach the back, slip stitch onto 3 stitches on the back, ch and turn. Chained rows are made like before: 6 chains, 1 sc in the sc, 6 chains, 1 sc in the sc. I made 3 shell stitch rows and 1 chained row. At the bra cup corner where the ties are you don’t slip stitch the side of the ruffles anywhere, cause this is where the front split is.
    
18. Break off and make the other strap.

Video on how to crochet the body of the top:

If you are able to, you can donate small or big amounts to say thanks for the pattern, this way I can continue to share free patterns:

Yarn: Wool & cotton mix. 200 g. Size: Superfine, 50 g = 212 m
Hook: 4,5 mm
Stitch: Ternion stitch (made in 1 loop (front/back) of the chain from the row before) 1 ternion = *1 dc, 1 sc, 1 ch*
Tension: 10 cm = 8 ternion stitches x 8 rows
(crochet relatively loosely for a beautiful and soft drape)
Size: One size. 194 cm x 33 cm (non-stretched)

1. Make 274 chains, loosely.
2. Make the first ternion stitch in the 3rd ch from hook, skip a chain and crochet into the next, finishing with 1 ternion in the last ch, turn
3. Make first ternion in the last ch of the row before only through 1 loop, next ternion in next ch etc and make the last ternion through both loops in the chain
4. Make approx. 31 rows, 33 cm or 4 yarn balls.
5. Break of the yarn and weave in the ends.

Use as crochet scarf, head scarf, shawl or wrap.

See more free crochet patterns here

Here is a free simple pattern on how to crochet an easy bandana with triangle shape and a crochet mesh stitch that I invented.

It’s a good idea to measure on your head as you go – stop the increases and continue with no increase rows, when you have the width you want. Mine suits about a 56 cm head cirumference.

If you are able to, you can donate small or big amounts to say thanks for the pattern, this way I can continue to share free patterns:

Hook: 3 mm
Yarn: Sport/fine, 50 g = 140 m. I used wool for a stiffer look, but you can use any yarn. 19 grams.
Stitch: Ternion stitch – but instead of making the stitches in the chain (between the dc) you make them into the sc.
See tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDmk8zYBvU4
1 ternion stitch is made the following way: *1 dc, 1 sc into the side-loop of the dc, ch 1*
When it’s the last stitch in the row you finish with 2 ch instead of 1 (counting as the 2 turning chains).
Increase: By making 2 stitches in the first and last stitch on every 2nd and 3rd row all the way through.
After every row: Ch 2. Doesn’t count as a stitch, first stitch is made in the last sc of the row before.

Crochet tube top pattern can be found here.

Each increase row is made in bold:

Row 1: Ch 2, make 2 ternion stitches into the 2nd ch from the hook, ch 2 at the end, turn.
Row 2: 1 ternion stitch in the first sc, 1 ternion stitch in the last sc, ch 2, turn.

Row 3: 2 ternion st in the first sc, 2 ternion st in the last sc, ch 2, turn (4 st on the row)
Row 4: 2 ternion st in the first sc, 1 ternion st in the next 2 sc, 2 ternion st in the last sc, ch 2, turn (6 st on the row)

Row 3: 1 ternion st each of the sc on the row, ch 2, turn (6 st on the row)

Now repeat this pattern: 2 rows of increase where you inc with 1 extra st in the first and last sc stitch, followed by 1 row with no increase, until you have 29 rows. Now you make the one strap – don’t break off.

Get pattern for ribbed asymmetric crochet dress here.

Hook into the side of your row, yarn over, pull through. Yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through both loops. Hook into side of the stitch and repeat (sc chainless foundation).

See tutorial here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKdFydreBjY&t=7s

Continue until you have 58 stitches, break off.

Insert hook where you started the strap and make a sc-edge (approx 1 sc per row) down to the bottom point of the scarf – make 3 sc in the point (your first row) continue sc and when you reach the opposite side make the same strap. Break off and weave in ends. Pull the edges to straighten the scarf.