You will need to follow Zoey top in order to make this version, but you don’t need to subtract from your measurements. We need the extra fabric. I used the same yarn and hook as the pattern, but I also used some baby blue ribbon yarn and some white bouclé yarn for the edge – simply because I only had secondhand yarn. The bouclé added another shade of white and also a different texture, I liked that. For the top I even used two different shades of white – it’s okay – an imperfect top is just as beautiful.

The following is the process I made the top.

Now to make the ruffles & add the elastic:

Take 2 pieces of children’s elastic (0,5 cm wide), wrap it around your under bust and over bust, tie a knot – you want it to fit tightly, but comfortably – you can always tie another knot later on if needed (after the elastic is added).

Crochet a hdc edge around the top (top and bottom) by making approc 2 hdc per row (1 per row + 1 between each row) while crocheting around the elastic – see my video tutorials for reference.

The bows:

Find some ribbon yarn (or literal ribbon) then make two bows and sew them onto the front (the points of the top) Take 4 long strands – the longer the better – and sew them each to the inside of the top – on the front and back.

The straps:

Crochet a long straps using sc chainless foundation from each of the points of the top (in front of the ribbon/behind the bow) until you have enough length to tie the strap on the shoulder.

The front scrunch:

Take a long piece of ribbon and weave it through the front of the top – through two rows – parallel to each other (from the bottom and up) and tie them to a bow on the front of the top so you can scrunch the top together.

And you’re done!

(Bonus: embrace the imperfection of loose ends, and leave the ends of yarn from where you crocheted the straps).

If you like romantic crochet clothes, you might also like these patterns:

Ever since I noticed how well boat necks fit me, I have been paying attention to boat neck tops in tv and film, and when I was rewatching Legally Blonde for the 20th time the other day, I fell in love with a striped blue-greenish top that Elle Woods is wearing while studying for the LSATS. She sits on the floor reading a book and wears jeans and a belt and has loose hair. sYou can check out the scene here.

To make this top – follow Helena top

How to make those wavy stitches

What I love so much about this top is that you can’t really crochet anything wrong per say – just follow the pattern for Helena top, make the foundation in dc and then start switching between hdc and dc. When you get to the next row either make hdc into hdc (look at the row below you whether it’s a small or big stitch), dc into dc OR do the opposite and make hdc into dc and dc into hdc. One will make the row look kinda crooked and the other make it look wavy – I did a bit of both and even just switched it up on one row – this means that you don’t have to think much, you can just kinda crohet whatever – make 10 hdc after each other then make 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 dc – like just do it completely random if you want.

How to always make stripes look good

The same goes for the stripes, yarn weights and colors – I chose beige, two shades of green, silver (that looks blue when paired with these colors!) and some sparkly yarn that I only crocheted in hdc (simply because I didn’t have a lot of it and wanted to save some). You can go for fine/sport like I did but with the hook size you can also use worsted or even bulky yarn – it’ll work great as well and give even more unique texture and enhance the wavy look even more. Especially if you use some sparkly bouclé yarn as I did, it makes if look really unique.

Again, you can just mix the stripes at random and even just leave the yarn end at the beginning of the row and pick it up later, as you work in the round. I like to generally always add a neutral color between each color change, but sometimes I have switched it up and made two shades of green after each other – this works best with similar colors, if I was using contrast colors I would have definitely seperated them with a beige or silver color.

Have fun with it!

Play around and have fun, this is the most unique top made from such a simple pattern. The pattern comes in three sizes but you can easily size it up, by just adding more stitches and rows – and try it on as you go. I made it in size S, the sizes are made to be on the bigger side, or at least make the top fit more loosely, which I like with this one, because the stitches are see-through.

You can wear a top under, or even just sew a piece of fabric on the inside to cover the breast area if you want (or wear a neutral colored bra).

I think this top will look so good with jeans but also a midi skirt.

free crochet stitch tutorial on how to crochet polka dots. You can use this stitch tutorial to make a crochet polka top, a crochet polka dot dress, polka dot crochet pants, crochet polka dot shorts or acrochet polka dot accessory like a bag or a socks. Go to Mati Denmarks Youtube channel for the video tutorial. You can also use this to make faux buttons as seen onOfeila top (free)

Make sure to only make the dots on every other row and also make sure to add them with spacing between. You can crochet them intuitively and just look at your row where you want them to be.

You need: 3 mm hook & super fine cotton yarn ¤ double crochet.

When you’re ready to make your polka dot, make a slip stitch into the stitch you want it to be and change colour.
Chain 4, turn over, 1 slip stitch into the same stitch, chain 1, turn over, 7 single crochet into the hole. 1 slip stitch into the same stitch and change yarn. 1 slip stitch into the next stitch, chain 2, make 1 double crochet into the same stitch and continue the row until your next dot.

When you reach the next row and you reach the polka dot, make 1 single crochet into the 4th single crochet – so into the middle of the dot – only crocheting into the front loop. Continue with double crochet into the next stitches.

Push the polka dot so it pops out on the other side.

How to crochet small polka dots with angles:

Use hdc. When you’re ready to make your polka dot, change yarn by making 1 chain in the new colour – then make a slip stitch in the next stitch, chain 3 loosely, 1e slip stitch in the same stitch – then change yarn by making one chain in the new yarn. Continue wit hdc until your next dot. On the next row make 1 sc in the 2nd of the 3 chains or into the hole of the 3 chains, every time you reach the polka dot.

Use this crochet flower as it is – or add it to crochet clothes or sew together to a bag, blanket etc..

Hook: 3 mm
Yarn: Superfine/lace wool, approx. size: 50 g = 200 m
Stitches: double crochet (dc), single crochet (sc), chains (ch), slip stitch (ss)

1. Chain 4, connect to a ring with 1 ss in the 4th ch from hook, chain 2. Make 12 dc in the ring (crochet around the yarn end so you don’t need to weave it in in the end). 1 ss in the 1st dc in the round, ch 3, turn. Switch color now, if you’d like.
2. 1 ss in the first dc, ch 3, 1 ss in the next dc etc. – finish with 1 ss around the first arch = 12 arches, ch 1, turn
3. 1 ss in the first arch. Ch 2, 2 dc in the same arch, ch 3, 2 dc in the next arch, ch 3, 2 dc in the next etc. – finish with 3 ch and 1 ss in the first dc, ch 1
4. Continue in the same direction: 1 sc in the same stitch (first dc), then in the next arch make: 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc – repeat and end the round and flower with: 1 ss in the first sc. Break off and weave in the ends.

Cotton vs wool (using same pattern and same hook):

Video guide:

If you want to make this top:

Use superfine wool, 4,5 mm hook. Start with chainless foundation in treble crochet. Stretch and measure on your body. I made 74 stitches, connect in a round, ch 3 everytime you turn and make 1 treble in each stitch. At the end (when you have the length you want – I used 1 yarn ball of 50 g) you break off and tightly chain from about 1/4 of the way into the top, until it can get over your shoulder, slip stitch to the back.

When you attach the flowers you can sew or crochet, I sewed them on. Place them where you want with pins while you wear the top. You then sew only the back of the flowers onto the top. So this would be either into the back loop of the stitches or into the middle of the dc/sc stitch. Only crochet on the back, not all the way through to the front.

I made sure to not sew all the way around each flower but instead only sew on half and then continue to the next flower and so on, because then when I reached the end I could do the other half of all the flowers.

If you want to make the leaves use same yarn and hook: chain 11. make in the following stitches: 1 sc, 1 hdc, ,1 dc, 4 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. 1 ss in the 1st sc. Chain 11 tightly. Now you can make one more leaf. If you want 2 leaves next to each other just chain immediately after making a leaf, then make 1 ss in the 1st sc on the first leaf to connect them.

Sew them by sewing into the edge all the way up on both sides of the leaf and down and by sewing stitches around the 11 chains you make – the chains are so small it’s hard to sew through them (and not necessary).

Yarn: Superfine cotton. 50 g = 160 m
Hook: 3 mm
Stitch: Shell stich (3 dc, 1 sc), dc + dc in chainless foundation, sc, slip stitch, chains.

1. Use the free bra cup pattern and make 2 bra cups. After finishing the second one, don’t break off. Now onto the body.
   
2. Make 1 dc into every hole on the bottom bra cup edge (between 2 sc rows), then make approx the same amount as a chainless foundation in dc (make sure to stretch and measure on your back)
   I had 44 dc on the bra cup, 44 on the back, 44 on the other bra cup. Continue with dc on the other bra cup.
3. Stop at the edge and start to chain for the length.
   
4. Chain and stretch the chain to see how long you want it. I made 54 chains. Make a number that can be divided with 6.
   
5. Chain 3 (turning chains), make the first 3 dc in the 4th ch from the hook. 1 sc in the 3rd chain from the hook, 3 dc in the next ch, 1 sc in the 3. ch etc.
6. Every shell stitch row is finished by slip stitching into 3 stitches on the bra cup, ch 2 and turn.
7. 3 dc in sc, 1 sc in the 2nd dc in the shell. If you finish with 1 sc, chain, turn and make 3 dc in the sc, 1 sc in the middle of the next shell. If you finish with 3 dc, chain and turn and make 1 sc in the middle of the first shell, 3 dc in the next sc, etc.
8. Make as many rows as you like, then switch to chains. Always make at least 2 rows with chains.
9. Make 3 chains, 1 sc in the sc etc. Ch 3 and turn over, 1 sc around the first chained arch, 3 ch, 1 sc around the next arch. etc. You can make sure you make the same number of arches by counting how many you have, sometimes you might have to make one more arch before slip stitching to the bra cup. Always end a chained row at the bra cup by making 1 slip stitch, chain for the next arch and turn over. Make sure to count the number of arches so you make sure to make the same amount on every chained row, sometimes you might have to add an extra arch at the end/beginning.
10. When you switch back to shell stitch you crochet around the arch and into the sc. 3 dc around the arch, 1 sc in the sc.
11. Alternate between chained rows and shell stitch and every set of chained rows you make an increase by making 1 extra chain. So 4 chains, 1 sc for two rows, back to shell stitch row(s), next set, 5 chains, 1 sc etc. You do this until you make 8 chains, then you continue to chain 8 everytime you make chained rows. Mark where on the top you made the 7 chains, so that when you reach the opposite side of the top you can start to make less chains in the same spot.
12. I made a random mix of 2 chained rows and alternating between 1, 2, 3 4, 5 rows of shell stitch. You can look at what you have crocheted and ask yourself: what would look good here: more coverage or more holes?
13. Once you reach the back you will start to slip stitch into 4 stitches on the bra cup after every shell stitch row. When you make 8 chains in your chained row you finish by slip stitching into 2 stitches on the bra cup.
    
14. When you have crocheted on the other bra cup as well you can stop at the corner and chain 80, then slip stitch back to make a strap. Break off an do the same on the other side.
    
15. Now crochet 1 sc into each of the 3 sc on the top of the bra cup for a strap. Crochet back and forth until you have enough to reach to the back. Stretch the strap. I had 60 rows.
16. Slip stitch onto the back and try on. Make more or less rows if needed. I slip stitched mine onto the 17th, 18th and 19th stitch from the armpit.
    
17. Crochet on the side of the strap and on the side of the bra cups (the inside). Make shell stitch rows and chained rows (with 6 chains). In order to create ruffle you don’t skip any stitches. Every hole (between 2 sc rows) count as 1 stitch. Make 3 dc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next, etc. Chain and turn, when you reach the back, slip stitch onto 3 stitches on the back, ch and turn. Chained rows are made like before: 6 chains, 1 sc in the sc, 6 chains, 1 sc in the sc. I made 3 shell stitch rows and 1 chained row. At the bra cup corner where the ties are you don’t slip stitch the side of the ruffles anywhere, cause this is where the front split is.
    
18. Break off and make the other strap.

Video on how to crochet the body of the top:

If you are able to, you can donate small or big amounts to say thanks for the pattern, this way I can continue to share free patterns:

Yarn: Wool & cotton mix. 200 g. Size: Superfine, 50 g = 212 m
Hook: 4,5 mm
Stitch: Ternion stitch (made in 1 loop (front/back) of the chain from the row before) 1 ternion = *1 dc, 1 sc, 1 ch*
Tension: 10 cm = 8 ternion stitches x 8 rows
(crochet relatively loosely for a beautiful and soft drape)
Size: One size. 194 cm x 33 cm (non-stretched)

1. Make 274 chains, loosely.
2. Make the first ternion stitch in the 3rd ch from hook, skip a chain and crochet into the next, finishing with 1 ternion in the last ch, turn
3. Make first ternion in the last ch of the row before only through 1 loop, next ternion in next ch etc and make the last ternion through both loops in the chain
4. Make approx. 31 rows, 33 cm or 4 yarn balls.
5. Break of the yarn and weave in the ends.

Use as crochet scarf, head scarf, shawl or wrap.

Her kan du donere et lille eller stort beløb, så jeg kan blive ved at dele gratis hækleopskrifter.

Garn: Uld & bomulds mix. 200 g. Str: Superfine, 50 g = 212 m
Hæklenål: 4,5 mm
Stitch: Ternion masker (laves i 1 maskeled/bagerste) af luftmasken fra rækken forinden, undtagen sidste lm, her hækles gennem begge maskeled). 1 ternion = *stgm, fm, lm*
Hæklefasthed: 10 cm = 8 ternion masker x 8 rækker
(Hækl løst for et smukt og blødt fald)
Størrelse: One size. 194 cm x 33 cm (uden stræk)

1. Lav 274 luftmasker, løst.
2. Lav 1. ternion maske i den 3. m fra nålen, spring 1 maske over og hækl i den næste, kun i 1 maskeled slut af med 1 ternion maske i sidste lm, gennem begge maskeled.
3. Lav første ternion maske i sidste lm fra rækken før, kun i 1 maskeled, lav næste ternion i næste lm osv, slut med 1 ternion i sidste lm igennem begge maskeled.
4. Lav ca. 31 rækker, 33 cm eller indtil du har brugt 4 garnruller.
5. Bryd af og sy enderne ind.

Brug som hæklet halstørklæde, hovedtørklæde, sjal eller wrap.