How to crochet a top with off-shoulder straps and textured stitch:
Hook: 3 mm Yarn: Cotton, superfine/size 1. Link to a cheap yarn with lots of pretty colors here (affiliate).
Follow pattern for Florence top – but instead of sc use hdc stitches. The fit and drape will be different. You can of course also use sc as the pattern.
Here’s how to make the stitch, here shown in hdc
Finish the top as the pattern says, now measure your measurement over your shoulder – from armpit to armpit, see video here for guide to how to measure. Of course you can also try on the top as you go!
Now place your top flat as pictured above. Insert your hook in the side with a slip stitch and repeat the stitches for the body until you have the strap with you want.
Crochet back and forth until you have your measurement or until you have the length you want.
Slip stitch into the opposite side of the top, repeat the same with the other side.
How to crochet a striped halterneck textured dress with low-cut back and back strap:
Hook: 6 mm Yarn: BLUE: 2 strands of superfine/size 1 cotton (50 g = 169 m), OFF WHITE: 2 strands of superfine/size 1 in Tencel/Lyocell yarn (50 g = 141 m) and GREEN: 1 strand of size 3/DK/worsted cotton, viscose and linen blend (50 g = 120 m). LINK TO YARN: Click here, hereand herefor yarn + yarn alternatives (affiliate) I used 355 g for my size M/L.
Stripes: The stripes are made randomly. I change color the following way: on the last stitch of the round I switch colors before pulling the yarn through for the last time. Make sure to mark the start of your round to know when to change color.
SKIRT
1. You will need to follow the pattern Olivia dress to make this. Follow the pattern and see my measurement example in the pattern. Make sure to always try the first row around your hip to see how it fits.
2. The stripes are made randomly – a good tip: alternate between the colors and make 1 or 2 rows of white between the darker colors – this will make it stand more out and blend less into each other. I did not break off the yarn, I just left it and picked it up whenever I needed that color. You still crochet in the same direction, just make sure to mark the beginning of your round so you know when to change color.
BACK OPENING
3. For the back opening you will need to break off the yarn (you only need to do this if you make stripes, otherwise follow the pattern).
4. Place the dress so the beginning of the round is on the side, this way it will be less visible on the front/back. Then mark out the measurement for the back on the middle of the round.
5. Insert your hook with 1 slip stitch and 1 chain from the wrong side in your first mark and make the back.
6. Try on the dress, when you reach the middle of your bust, make twice as many decreases than before.
7. Continue until you reach your collarbone/neck. Finish with 1 row of hdc in white (or the color you want) Now chain for the strap.
STRAPS
8. Chain 70, ss back over the chains. Crochet hdc down the side, over the back opening and up to the other side, chain for the second strap and break off the yarn.
9. Insert your hook with 1 slip stitch in the edge of the back opening (around where your waist would be or below your bust, depending on what you prefer – try on the dress and hold it how you want it to be tied).
10. Tightly chain until you have about 80-100 chains. I only used 1 strand of superfine/size 1 yarn – but you can also make the strap thicker by using two strands.
11. That’s it! Remember to tag @mati_denmark and hashtag #OliviaDress if you share photos of your creation on social media!
Hook: 3 mm Yarn: 100% lyocell yarn. Size 1/superfine. Brand: Tencel – feel so nice. Bought at Kvickly. 50 g = 141 m. Stitches: Double crochet
Follow the pattern for Keri skirt but use double crochet instead.
When you reach the beginning of your slit, increase twice as often, with the same number of stitches as the pattern states. Thereby making double the amount of increase to get a more flared skirt.
Finish the skirt as the pattern states with the elastic waist band.
Other crochet patterns with tencel yarn that you might like:
How to crochet chunky shorts with drawstring waist:
Hook: 6 mm Yarn: Size 4/aran/worsted. Find yarn here (affiliate) Stitches: Single crochet in back loop and half double crochet.
Follow the Ellie shorts pattern and use the same measurements as describes. I made mine short – but just make sure the full length is longer than the crotch length.
When doing the decreasing on the crotch and the hips, you are going to decrease less. I decreased about half as many stitches per row than the pattern says. Sometimes I only decrease 1/3.
As the pattern is quite intuitive it won’t matter if you on some rows make less decreases than on others – just as long as front and front have the same stitches when you end the panel (and back and back have the same stitches at the end of the decreasing).
For the waist. You are going to make half double crochet stitches through both loops. I made approximately 1-2 hdc per single crochet row – but just make sure to spread them out so you are not increasing on the waist band.
You do the same as in the pattern, but you don’t insert elastic at the end – just make a small opening inside the waistband so you can insert a waist tie.
Sew the waistband close and then use a safety pin to weave the waist tie into the waistband.
If you are like me, crocheting can turn into a stressful activity and make you get stuck in your head, drifting away from the present moment and out of your body – this can lead to dissociating where you shut down your body and emotions, feel numb, lose track of time and neglect doing other things during the day because crocheting takes up everything.
Dissociating can be good in smaller doses and it is something most people recognise – have you ever read a book and drifted totally away from your life and into this story? But if it happens too much or all the time it can lead to feeling disconnected and losing touch with yourself and even forgetting to breathe. For me not being present when crocheting looks like this:
– Thinking about how the item is gonna look – Forgetting to breathe – Fixating on visualizing putting on the item/ weaving in the last end/making the last stitch – Thinking about where to take photos, what to wear with the item – Crocheting way too fast to reach the goal quicker – Worrying about wheter or not the item will look good/fit – Neglecting other areas like eating, drinking, bathroom breaks, socializing or even personal hygiene.
It’s not that it’s bad to sometimes think or act in this way. Visualizing and having a goal is also important, but when it takes over it can turn crocheting into something toxic and even an addiction.
But often this overwhelms me with all the things that needs to be done to get the item done, I’ll become too fixated on finishing the project rather than being present, being in the Now – and therefore be mindful about the process.
IT’S NOT ENOUGH, SO I RUSH.
My problem is that I get a feeling of urgency, I feel that was is here now is not enough, I think that it will be better once I’m done with the project. And I feel this lingering feeling of not having enough hours in the day, I am behing and time is running out for me, so I rush.
Then today while sitting with my crochet and thinking these thoughts I looked over at my herb table where I have planted seeds in soil. No sprouts are visible. I started to think, that I can focus on watering the soil and giving it enough sunlight – focus on the need of the seeds day by day, or I could get fixated on the future — when the herb table is filled with green herbs. Then I thought, but then you’ll pick the herbs – and then there will be no more herbs left, the soil will be empty again – no seeds and no sprouts and I’ll have to sow again and it all starts over. And I could see how this related to my crocheting and addiction to it and to always being one step ahead, not really enjoying the Now.
UNDERSTANDING THE CAUSE
Being constantly in the future prevents me from living. It tells me that something better is just around the corner. The same phenomenon happens when I go into a PTSD flashback, just the other way around; I feel that danger is lurking around every corner and I can’t be present.
I like to notice why I’m having difficulty being present. Writing this now is an attempt to do just that – be present about why I can’t be present today. Notice what I feel and why I might feel that way.
Often it stems from feeling of mistrust and uncertainty about me and my life, so drifting off into the future becomes an escape into “something better”, where the tasks are done, the kitchen is clean, my hair is washed, my bank account has more money etc.
CAN BE A TRAUMA SYMPTOM
Escaping into the future can be a life saver if you have experienced trauma, this is what saves you, if something bad is happening to you and the pain of being in the moment is worth than dying. Then it’s a relief to drift away in your mind, to avoid experiencing the pain in the present.
Mindfulness and being present can’t be forced. You can’t do anything to become mindful, it’s actually more about not doing.
If you’re doing a lot, racing through your projects, thinking ahead all the time, rushing around and trying to reach the finish line, you’ll continue to race. Because it’s not about the things and the race, it’s because of something happening right now that you are fleeing from. But know, that it’s okay to flee, understanding the “why” is so crucial in both being aware of what is happening and being able to change it.
When I can’t see a clear cause to my stress I notice that it’s just because that’s what my brain has been taught – even though there is no danger in the present. I have been used to driving on a road of fear and stress and it’s what it has known most. I need to create another road aswell, a road of more peace and being, so I have a contrast to the old road.
LEARNING TO TAKE MY TIME Sometimes I just need to put the work away to do (or not do) something else completely. Brew some tea, watch a comedy series, go for a walk, breathe. I think it is also about appreciating what is here and now – even if what is here and now is an unfinished project. Think about maybe sharing your unfinished project and romanticizing the process more than the product.
Today I’m practising to tell myself “There is nothing to do”. Everything that is happening or that “needs to get done” will get done in its own, I can’t force it – well I can, but I won’t like it. I’m enough and I’ve done enough.
And sometimes it’s my fear talking, it’s the fear of not earning enough money to provide for myself, the fear of being forced to do a regular job that will slowly kill me, the fear of being trapped in an enviornement that is not good for me. I sometimes think, that if I can just do and do at 200 km/h, then I can relax for a few days.
No! I can relax and still earn money. Just as the days I’ve been the most productive I don’t sell a single product. And yes it’s uncertain and I don’t know how the future will look, and that’s okay. I can take my time, I have time, I don’t need to rush, I’m enough. I’m really enough.
How to crochet a chunky ribbed top with elastic straps:
Hook: 10 mm (beige top) or 6 mm (grey top) Yarn: Size 8/super bulky/14 ply, wool, 50 g = 50 m (I used 90 grams) Or size 4/aran/worsted, cotton, 50 g = 125 m. Click here or here for the yarn I used (affiliate).
Follow pattern for Etna top but make half as many decreases. For the grey top crochet use single crochet instead.
For the straps: chain 80 (or 10 for the grey top) and crochet hdc slip stitches: Yarn over, hook through chain, yarn over, pull through stitch and all loops. Repeat through the remaining chains.
For elastic back:
For the straps only chain 40 (70 for the grey top). Repeat the hdc slip stitch above.
Cut a piece of 5 mm elastic that measures about 20 cm. Attach to both sides of the top with safety pin. With a 4 mm hook crochet single crochet around the elastic until it covers it. Sew in the elastic. Use this tutorial.
Follow the Holly hat pattern and use single crochet
Use 4 mm hook and 2 strands of superfine/size 1 cotton
When you reach the increases on the brim, only increase half as much as increase randomly. (depending on the stitches you use, you increase either 4, 5 or 6 stitches per round)
When you have the length you want, finish and break off the yarn.
Other tips for Holly hat: – If you want a smooth circle make sure to just increase randomly.
– If you want a pointy edge (to the brim as well), mark every other increase (every other point) that you made on your last increase round that you made before making the actual tube. This way you know when to increase when you start the brim (as the increase is made in the same stitch on each round).
Ja! Du behøver ikke have taget kurser, have erfaring med at drive virksomhed eller have hæklet i adskillige år, for at starte en hæklevirksomhed. Jeg plejer at sige, at hvis jeg kan, så kan du også.
MIN BEGYNDELSE
Da jeg startede, var jeg slet ikke klar over at man kunne tjene penge på at hækle. Jeg husker en af de allerførste opslag jeg lavede på Instagram, hvor en fremmed kvinde skrev og spurgte om hun kunne bestille sådan en top. Langsomt begyndte det at gå op for mig, at det faktisk var muligt at tjene penge på.
Når det kommer til hækling er der også mange forskellige måder at tjene penge på det på. Det afhænger både af hvad du er god til, hvad du kan lide at lave og hvad andre er villige til at betale for.
Sommetider skal du være i gang i lidt tid, for at opdage hvad folk er interesserede i og hvad du er god til og andre gange vil folk kontakte dig direkte og fortælle dig, hvad de vil have.
FIND UD AF HVAD DU KAN, HVAD DU VIL & HVAD ANDRE VIL BETALE FOR
Kan du lide at designe noget som en kunde bestiller dig til? Vil du hellere selv bestemme den kreative proces? Vil du skabe fysiske produkter og sælge dem eller lave produkter på bestilling? Eller vil du lave digitale produkter som fx opskrifter eller kurser?
Når du har fundet ud af det område du ønsker at arbejde i, så skær processen ned til mindre dele – hvad indebærer det – skridt for skridt. Hvilke opgaver kan du lide og er god til? Hvilke opgaver bryder du dig mindre om? Det er vigtigt at forstå dine egne begrænsninger og talenter, så du har overbliuk over det.
Måske vil du samarbejde med andre hæklere, fx designe for dem eller hækle for dem eller skrive deres opskrifter? Hvad er det for et slags arbejde du ønsker at skabe for dig selv? Skriv det hele ned, skriv alle dine ønsker og behov ned, og alt det som afholder dig fra det. Det er okay at bede andre om hjælp også, og det er okay at sige nej til noget, som du ikke vil eller kan finde ud af. Forvent ikke at du skal kunne det hele og kunne lide det hele, vi hara alle styrker og svagheder.
SKÆR NED PÅ UDGIFTER
Hvis du ligesom mig synes, at det allervigtigste er at være selvstændig, så tror jeg også du er villig til at ofre nogle ting for det. For mig har friheden i at have mit eget job, været meget højere end ønsket om at rejse, shoppe meget eller gå i byen. Men hvis det ikke er så vigtigt for dig at blive selvstændig, men du hellere bare vil tjene lidt ved siden af, så kan du sagtens fortsætte din livsstil og stadig tjene lidt ved at hækle på deltid.
Jeg er heldig at jeg ikke kun kan leve meget billigt, men at jeg også skaber produkter, som ikke koster mig særlig meget. Det koster mig ikke penge at lave en opskrift og eksportere den til en pdf-fil. Jeg bruger et gratis skriveprogram og det garn jeg bruger til at lave designs med, det bliver enten til et produkt jeg kan sælge eller bruge eller også piller jeg det op og skaber noget nyt.
SAMARBEJDE MED GARNFORHANDLERE & INFLUENCERE
Hvis du har cirka 1.000 følgere på dine sociale medier, kan det godt betale sig at tage kontakt til en garnforhandler.
Meget af mit garn har jeg også købt i genbrug til en billig penge og ellers har jeg indgået nogle sponsorsamarbejder med garnforhandlere, som har sendt mig gratis garn i modbetaling til at jeg deler billeder med det, jeg har kreeret. Når du sender sådan en mail, så hav fokus på hvad du kan bidrage med. Fortæl hvem og hvor dine følgere er fra, fortæl hvilke slags opslag du har tænkt dig at lave og hvordan de kan forvente at få flere kunder igennem dine opslag.
Du kan også oprette en profil på partner-ads.com. Det er gratis og her kan du ansøge om at bruge reklamelinks på din side. Hvis folk klikker på linket og køber noget igennem det, får du en procentdel af salget.
En sidste god idé er at indgå samarbejder med influencere – afhængig af hvilket slags arbejde du laver, så er det en god idé at finde en influencer med følgere som kunne være potentielle kunder. Hvis du sælger fysiske produkter, så find en influencer der passer din stil. Hvis det er opskrifter du sælger, så find en influencer, som har følgere der også kan lide at hækle.
OVERVEJ OM DU KAN TILBYDE ANDRE PRODUKTER
Det er vigtigt at huske, at du ikke behøver at holde dig til ét område, hvis du også brænder for noget andet. Fx kan du lave e-bøger, kurser, lydoptagelser eller videoer som du kan tage penge for. Tænk over hvad du er god til og hvad du kan bidrage med og samtidig hvad andre er interesserede i at betale for. Husk at værdsætte din egen viden og input – du er og kan noget specielt og det er penge værd.
Det kan også være du vil noget helt andet – fx lave en hækleworkshop eller være mentor for andre hæklere.
HVORDAN TJENER JEG PENGE?
I starten, da jeg ikke kunne leve af det endnu, tjente jeg penge på at hækle toppe på bestilling. Da jeg stadig var ret ukendt, kunne jeg ikke få en særlig fair pris for mine produkter og jeg måtte gentagne gange lave opslag omkring produktionen, for at minde folk om at det tager tid at producere håndlavet tøj. Entop der tog mig 6-7 timer at hækle (uden pauser), fik jeg 400 kr for. Så var der også levering oveni og prisen for garnet. Det kunne ikke betale sig i længden.
Min plan var egentlig at fortsætte med det, fordi jeg ikke var interesseret i at skrive opskrifter. Men med tiden så jeg, at der var færre der bestilte og flere der eftersprugte opskrifter, så derfor besluttede jeg mig for at skabe opskrifter, selvom jeg faktisk ikke brød mig om at skulle det – med tiden begyndte jeg ikke kun at kunne lide det men også opdage, at jeg var rigtig god til det.
FINDE BALANCEN
Alt hvad du laver i din virksomhed, kan ikke være lige sjovt. Noget kan du være rigtig god til, men ikke synes er særlig sjovt. Noget andet kan du synes er rigtigt sjovt, men er ikke særlig god til. Det er meget naturligt, at vores styrker og svagheder ligger forskellige steder. Det er også okay, at bede andre om hjælp og det er også okay at lave noget som du ikke synes er ligeså sjovt som det andet og det er også okay at sige nej til at lave noget!
Find ud af, om det er det værd. Hvis du kan tjene penge på at lave noget, som er nemt for dig eller som du er god til, så betyder det måske ikke så meget om du synes det altid er lige sjovt – hvis du tilgengæld får noget igen!
Hvis du decideret ikke kan udstå noget, er det måske en god idé at lægge fokus et andet sted.
TIL SIDST
For at kunne leve af at hækle, er det vigtigt at finde en balance mellem det du kan, det du kan lide og det andre vil betale for. Det er vigtigt, at hvis en opgave føles overvældende for dig, så husk at sæt en grænse. Sig ikke bare ja, fordi nogen er villig til at betale dig for det.
Og husk, at bliv ved med at mød dig selv i det, du kan lide – giv dig selv lang snor – både til at udforske de ting du kan lide, men også at prøve nye ting af. Samtidig, mød andre med et åbent sind, lyt til deres feedback, deres ønsker, deres idéer – hvem ved, måske vil du blive overrasket!
–
Husk at du altid er velkommen til at skrive til mig, hvis du har brug for hjælp på din hæklerejse. Du kan også finde min e-bog der beskriver mere i detaljer, hvordan du kan skabe dit eget job. Læs den her.
Du kan også læse mere om min rejse fra arbejdsløs på kontanthjælp med ptsd, kronisk angst og stress til selvstændig i min egen virksomhed lige her.
Hook: 4 mm Yarn: Jute and white cotton/linen blend in size 3 or 4. Stitches (US terms): dc = double crochet sc = single crochet ss = slip stitch ch = chain
Start with jute. Row 1: Make a chainless foundation with dc until you have 30 stitches, ch 2 and turn over.
Row 2: Make 5 dc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the 5th stitch, 5 dc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the 5th stitch. Finish with 1 sc in the last stitch, ch 2 and turn over.
Row 3: 5 dc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the 3rd dc (the middle of the shell). Repeat, finish with 1 sc in the 3rd dc of the last shell, ch 2 and turn.
Row 4-5: Repeat row 3.
Change to the white cotton/linen blend.
Row 6: Every stitch on the row counts as one dc. Start by making 3 decreased dc stitches yb crocheting two stitches together to one, make 1 dc in every stitch until you have 6 stitches left. Make 3 decreased dc stitches, ch 2 and turn over.
Row 7: Make 1 dc in every stitch, ch 2 and turn over.
Row 8-10: Change back to jute. Repeat what you did from row 2. Break off the yarn.
Make one more panel but make row 1 with the white yarn. Make 1 row with dc in jute and continue from “Row 2”.
Now ss the three sides of the bag together.
Strap: Change to white yarn. Chain 60. Make 1 ss into the opposite side of the back. Chain 1. Make 80 sc around the chains and finish with 1 ss where you started. Chain 1. Single crochet over the edge of the bag and behind the straps. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch and break off the yarn.
The pattern and finished product is for private use. Remember to tag @mati_denmark in your posts! . Pattern may not be sold or distributed. Product made with the pattern may also not be sold.
